Key financing questions you should ask

By Bankrate.com

Here are some questions that you must ask when discussing financing. Write them down or print them out before going to the dealer. Make sure you get answers to these questions that you fully understand. If anything is vague or confusing, walk away and come back after you've had time to think about it. If the sales or finance person makes a claim you think is too good to be true, have them write it on the finance contract and get a manager to sign off.

1. What's the interest rate I'm really paying? The APR (annual percentage rate) is the best way to know what interest you are paying. It is the actual interest rate you pay annually on the unpaid balance of the loan. The rate you are offered will to a large extent depend on your credit score, a number that dealers get from your credit report.

2. Are there any possible penalties in my loan? Does paying the loan off early entail penalties? Are there any other possible extra charges that could occur during the term of my loan? Are there "hidden charges'' that effectively are penalties?

3. What is the precise (down to the penny) price I'm paying for the vehicle?

4. What is the total amount (be exact) being financed?

5. What's the dollar amount I'm paying for the credit (finance charge)?

6. What's the exact amount of each payment?

7. What is the total number of payments?

8. Is this deal contingent on getting subsequent approval of the financing from a third party? Some dealers will send you out the door with a car then call a day or two later to say they couldn't get you financed at the rate they quoted, but they have found a lender who will cover the loan at a higher payment. Don't fall for this. Make sure you know who the lender is and that the deal is sealed before leaving the lot. If there's any question, tell the dealer you'll come back and get the car when everything is settled.

9. What about credit insurance? Your lender may offer, or even demand, credit insurance. First, find out exactly what it will cost you. If you have an existing insurance policy that covers the same thing, make a thorough comparison. It's not required by federal law, and check your state's requirement (through the office of your attorney general or insurance commissioner) if your lender requires it. It's very rare that any do. But if you must pay, make sure it is included in the cost of your credit and see where it is reflected in the APR you are paying

Buying A New Car

A new car is second only to a home as the most expensive purchase many consumers make. According to the National Automobile Dealers Association, the average price of a new car sold in the United States is $28,400. That’s why it’s important to know how to make a smart deal.

Buying Your New Car

Think about what car model and options you want and how much you’re willing to spend. Do some research. You’ll be less likely to feel pressured into making a hasty or expensive decision at the showroom and more likely to get a better deal.

Consider these suggestions:

• Check publications at a library or bookstore, or on the Internet, that discuss new car features and prices. These may provide information on the dealer’s costs for specific models and options.
  
• Shop around to get the best possible price by comparing models and prices in ads and at dealer showrooms. You also may want to contact car-buying services and broker-buying services to make comparisons.
  
• Plan to negotiate on price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin, often between 10 and 20 percent.

Usually, this is the difference between the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) and the invoice price.Because the price is a factor in the dealer’s calculations regardless of whether you pay cash or finance your car — and also affects your monthly payments — negotiating the price can save you money.

Consider ordering your new car if you don’t see what you want on the dealer’s lot. This may involve a delay, but cars on the lot may have options you don’t want — and that can raise the price. However, dealers often want to sell their current inventory quickly, so you may be able to negotiate a good deal if an in-stock car meets your needs.

Learning the Terms

Negotiations often have a vocabulary of their own. Here are some terms you may hear when you’re talking price

• .Invoice Price is the manufacturer’s initial charge to the dealer. This usually is higher than the dealer’s final cost because dealers receive rebates, allowances, discounts, and incentive awards. Generally, the invoice price should include freight (also known as destination and delivery). If you’re buying a car based on the invoice price (for example, “at invoice,” “$100 below invoice,” “two percent above invoice”) and if freight is already included, make sure freight isn’t added again to the sales contract.
  
• Base Price is the cost of the car without options, but includes standard equipment and factory warranty. This price is printed on the Monroney sticker.
  
• Monroney Sticker Price (MSRP) shows the base price, the manufacturer’s installed options with the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, the manufac-turer’s transportation charge, and the fuel economy (mileage). Affixed to the car window, this label is required by federal law, and may be removed only by the purchaser.
  
• Dealer Sticker Price, usually on a supplemental sticker, is the Monroney sticker price plus the suggested retail price of dealer-installed options, such as additional dealer markup (ADM) or additional dealer profit (ADP), dealer preparation, and undercoating.
  

Financing Your New Car

If you decide to finance your car, be aware that the financing obtained by the dealer, even if the dealer contacts lenders on your behalf, may not be the best deal you can get. Contact lenders directly. Compare the financing they offer you with the financing the dealer offers you. Because offers vary, shop around for the best deal, comparing the annual percentage rate (APR) and the length of the loan. When negotiating to finance a car, be wary of focusing only on the monthly payment. The total amount you will pay depends on the price of the car you negotiate, the APR, and the length of the loan.

Sometimes, dealers offer very low financing rates for specific cars or models, but may not be willing to negotiate on the price of these cars. To qualify for the special rates, you may be required to make a large down payment. With these conditions, you may find that it’s sometimes more affordable to pay higher financing charges on a car that is lower in price or to buy a car that requires a smaller down payment.

Before you sign a contract to purchase or finance the car, consider the terms of the financing and evaluate whether it is affordable. Before you drive off the lot, be sure to have a copy of the contract that both you and the dealer have signed and be sure that all blanks are filled in.

Some dealers and lenders may ask you to buy credit insurance to pay off your loan if you should die or become disabled. Before you buy credit insurance, consider the cost, and whether it’s worthwhile. Check your existing policies to avoid duplicating benefits. Credit insurance is not required by federal law. If your dealer requires you to buy credit insurance for car financing, it must be included in the cost of credit. That is, it must be reflected in the APR. Your state Attorney General also may have requirements about credit insurance. Check with your state Insurance Commissioner or state consumer protection agency.

Trading in Your Old Car

Discuss the possibility of a trade-in only after you’ve negotiated the best possible price for your new car and after you’ve researched the value of your old car. Check the library for reference books or magazines that can tell you how much it is worth. This information may help you get a better price from the dealer. Though it may take longer to sell your car yourself, you generally will get more money than if you trade it in.

Considering a Service Contract

Service contracts that you may buy with a new car provide for the repair of certain parts or problems. These contracts are offered by manufacturers, dealers, or independent companies and may or may not provide coverage beyond the manufac-turer’s warranty. Remember that a warranty is included in the price of the car while a service contract costs extra.

Before deciding to purchase a service contract, read it carefully and consider these questions:

• What’s the difference between the coverage under the warranty and the coverage under the service contract?
  
• What repairs are covered?
  
• Is routine maintenance covered?
  
• Who pays for the labor? The parts?
  
• Who performs the repairs? Can repairs be made elsewhere?
  
• How long does the service contract last?
  
• What are the cancellation and refund policies?

To File a Complaint

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit www.ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

Keep Your Old Clunker or Buy a New Car?

It may clang and bang, but your despised old car may be the best bargain around.
By Des Toups

Let's divide the car-buying universe into two camps: those who keep a car until it drops, and those who think a new car will change their lives.

To the first, a round of applause. There's nothing short of the bus that's cheaper than keeping a car until it crumbles into a pile of rust. Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars.

To the second, another round of applause, because the 16 million or so new cars they buy every year instantly become used cars soon available at a considerable discount to those in Camp 1. And a moment of silence, because a new car will change their lives in ways they never foresaw on the dealer's lot.

If you're in a drive-until-the-muffler-is-dragging wannabe, read on. We'll look at ways to keep your car on the road longer and realistically weigh the costs of upgrading.

I'd love to keep my old car, but …

It no longer fits my life. You may have taken up gardening in a big way but still own a Corvette. You may feel nervous about taking your '78 Ford on a trip to Colorado. Your little Accord may be a tight squeeze when family comes to town. The answer to all: Rent. Why buy a gas-sucking pickup because you visit Home Depot twice a year or a $30,000 sport-utility because you take the kids skiing for a week at Easter? Even at $100 a weekend, renting is far cheaper than a car payment. Plus you get to drive the very latest without worrying about insurance, license tags, maintenance or depreciation. Or try swapping cars with a friend, returning it gassed-up and clean (with the oil changed, too, if the loan was more than a day or two. You want to be able to ask again next year.).

Those repair bills are really adding up. Then do the math. Does the cost of repairs exceed the cost of a new car? A typical new car is $21,000, about $350 a month for five years after 20% down. A rebuilt transmission might run $1,500, a huge outlay in one chunk, but far less than the $4,200 a year you'd spend on new-car payments alone. If you can't afford repairs twice a year, it's unlikely you can afford a new car payment every month. In any case, anybody with a car older than three years should be tucking aside $50 a month for repairs and maintenance. If the gods smile, you'll never use most of it and you'll have a tidy sum to blow on your next car.

I'm nervous driving an older car. Maybe little things are beginning to go: a new thermostat one month, a starter the next. You might simply spend $50 on a AAA membership and carry a cell phone, reminding yourself that even new cars aren't immune to mechanical failure. The upside of frequent breakdowns is that you'll get to know mechanics quite well. Find one you like. Flatter him. Pay your bills on time. And the next time he fixes your car, ask him to take a few minutes to see what else will need repair soon.

The repair costs more than the car is worth. A $1,500 engine rebuild that keeps your '83 Toyota on the road still makes good financial sense. It's at this point, however, that all but the flintiest drivers begin to think about upgrading.

Which brings us to our next question:

Am I ready for a newer car?
Your first step is to do nothing except write a check to yourself in the amount you're thinking you can afford every month. Put aside a car payment every month for three months (long enough for at least one of life's little emergencies to crop up).

To pass the time, make three phone calls: one to your bank, to find out what kind of rates they charge on loans to people with your credit history; one to your insurer, to ask the rates for comprehensive insurance on a model you think you'd like to buy; and one to your local DMV, to see what registration and licensing would cost.

At the end of three months, ask yourself these questions:

How much did it hurt? If you skimped at all on other bills or shorted the amount of the payment, you're not ready.
Would I have enough left over to pay for insurance and licensing fees each year?

Would I pay this much every month for the car that's in my driveway already? Sooner or later, every new car becomes an old car, and you'll feel about the next car just the way you do about your old clunker.

Would I rather have the cash? Our typical car payment, $350, adds up to more than $1,000 in just three short months. Perhaps you'd prefer to get a tan in Mexico and limp along with ol' Betsy another year.

Could I continue to save for another year and simply pay cash? Five grand would buy any of hundreds of reliable used models. Save for two years and you're in new-car territory, if your old car will fetch a few thousand.

If the craving for a shinier car hasn't passed in three months, at least you begin the shopping process with a few months' worth of car payments and a more realistic idea of the hit your wallet will take.

Side note: Never skimp on maintenance

Pay special attention to the things that will cost you a fortune if they break. That means regular oil changes, tire rotations and transmission tune-ups, even if the car is running fine. Timing belts, for example, are spendy at as much as $600, and replacing one for no other reason than that the odometer has turned 90,000 miles might seem wasteful. But let one break and you'll find that repairing bent valves could cost you three times that. Replacing torn CV boots, those plastic housings that keep grime and grit out of the car's constant-velocity joints, costs about a third as much as a CV joint repair. (If your owner's manual is long gone, MSN Autos has a free online service, My Car, that tracks your car's service schedule.)

Des Toups is senior editor at MSN Money in Seattle.

How to Say No When An Auto Salesperson Is Pressuring You

Being able to say no -- and mean it -- isn't just helpful when negotiating a car purchase. It's essential, says Philip Reed, consumer advice editor for auto research site Edmunds.com.

"The most effective way of saying no is saying it with your feet" by leaving the dealership when you don't get what you want, said Reed, author of "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers." "Some people say you should leave at least twice" before agreeing to buy a car.

You don't necessarily have to resort to that level of gamesmanship, Reed said, but you should find a salesperson who can take no for an answer.

Avoid the high pressure approach to car buying. Take your auto shopping on the Web. Click here to play the video.
"Car buying is a very expensive purchase with a lot of moving parts. . . . You need to be comfortable with your salesperson," Reed said. "You don't want someone who, when you say no, says, 'Well, why not?' or 'Didn't I tell you about this or that?' "

Using statements that can't really be argued, like "That's not my taste" or "I just don't want that," can help you fend off an aggressive salesperson, but a better solution is "if you're feeling uncomfortable, find someone else who understands no means no."

Extensively researching the car you want and arranging financing before you walk onto the lot can help you thwart attempts to sell you more car than you can afford. Being clear and consistent about what you're looking for will help, too, Grenny said, as can enlisting the salesperson to help you solve your problem rather than creating new ones.

"You can say something like, 'I want a year-old car with these features and I want to pay close to low Blue Book,' " Grenny said. " 'I'd also like you to make a reasonable profit. So how do we do that?' "

Negotiating the deal with the salesperson is usually only the first step. Many dealerships will also trot you to a "closer" as well as the "F&I" (financing and insurance) person. These folks may view your agreement with the salesperson as just the starting point for selling you more stuff you don't want.

Be upfront, Reed urged. "Tell them, 'I want to wrap this up as soon as possible. I don't want any after-sell,' " he said. That may short-circuit the sales pitch, or they may trot out a "deal" on the extended warranty or paint protection.

Repeating "I don't want to be rude, but I want to wrap this up," Reed said, should deflate any further attempts. If not -- once again -- say no with your feet. You can say something like, "Wow, this deal is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought. I guess we can't go through with it today." Chances are the pitches will stop

Top Dealer Tricks To Watch Out For!

At the core, most dealers aren't out to rip you off. But they employ experienced and aggressive salespeople who have a bag of tricks designed to maximize the salesperson's cut and the dealer's profit.

The credit cozen: Some dealers may say something like, "With your credit score, you won't qualify for competitive financing rates.'' This may be true. However, some dealers will imply your credit is worse than it is so that you think you'll have to pay a higher interest rate. That's why it's important to know your credit score before you head to the showroom.

The single transaction strategy: Many people view buying a car as one transaction. It's not, and dealers know this. It's really three transactions rolled into one -- the new-car price, the trade-in value, and the financing. The dealer sees all three as ways to make money. Treat each of these as separate transactions, and negotiate each one. If you get a new car for $200 over invoice, but receive only $1,000 for a trade-in car that's worth $2,500, you haven't done as well as you could.

The payment ploy: A dealer might say, "We can get you into this car for only $389 a month.'' Probably true, but how? In some cases, the dealer may have factored in a large down payment, or may have stretched the term of the loan out to 60 or 72 months. Focus on the price of the car rather than the monthly payment. Never answer the question, "How much can you pay each month?'' Stick to saying, "I can afford to pay X-dollars for the car.''
The sticker shenanigan: The vehicle price listed on the window is what's known as the MSRP, or manufacturer's suggested retail price. Who cares? You want to know the invoice price -- the amount the dealer paid for it. Working from the invoice up is much easier than trying to cut dollars from the MSRP. You should also find out what cars actually are selling for, after taking into account any consumer and dealer incentives. Of course, some really hot cars go for sticker price and even above. Be patient and wait: The prices will fall as demand slacks off. And three years later, you'll be selling or trading a car for the same money as the early buyers who may have paid thousands more initially

The holdback hustle: Manufacturers often give cash incentives -- sometimes called a "holdback'' -- to their dealers to encourage them to move slow-selling models. This typically isn't mentioned in advertisements. You'll want to search for holdbacks or other factory-to-dealer incentives available for the car you're considering. While it's not a given that the dealer will apply any of these funds to the car you like, it doesn't hurt to ask.

The financing four-flush: Some dealers have been known to call customers days or even weeks after they signed a purchase agreement to tell them that the financing fell through. It's a crock. The dealer can know if you qualify for financing almost instantly. The goal? To sign you up for a loan with a higher interest rate because, according to them, they just found out you didn't qualify for the lower rate. Never leave the showroom without signed contracts that spell out every detail and with every blank filled in. If you've got that, they can't roll back on the financing.

The insurance illusion: Some dealers may try hard to get you to purchase an insurance policy when you're buying your car. One type, gap insurance, covers the difference between what the car is worth and the amount you still owe on it. Say the car is worth $10,000 but you still owe $12,000. If your car is a total loss, a gap insurance policy will cover that $2,000 difference. But don't automatically agree to it. Some insurers include the benefits of gap insurance in their regular comprehensive automobile coverage, so check there first. Also, gap insurance is generally quite inexpensive when purchased from your regular insurance company rather than a dealer. Another favorite, credit life insurance, will pay the balance of your loan if you die before you've been able to repay it. These policies may or may not make sense for you -- although in most cases you should decline all such offers. If these policies interest you, you'll want to understand what you're purchasing, and have the opportunity to decline it and shop around for better prices. The mark-up on these policies at the dealership can be enormous, in part because the insurance companies that sell the policies to the dealerships offer them huge incentives -- everything from cash to first-class trips -- to push them.

The rate razzle-dazzle: It certainly sounds tempting -- zero percent interest to finance a new car. However, this deal may not be the best one for your pocketbook. For starters, most financing incentives are for shorter terms and you need a stellar credit record. With very short-term loans, such as 24 or 36 months, payments on even a moderately priced car can be sky high. In addition, you may be better off finding your own financing, and then taking the dealer rebate, if one is offered. Say you're looking at a $20,000 car and will get $4,000 on your trade-in. You can choose between zero-percent financing, or financing at 3.49 percent with a $2,000 rebate. The term of the loan is 36 months. Over the course of the loan, you'll come out ahead by more than $1,200 if you take the rebate and the 3.49 percent financing. Use our calculator to compute the actual dollars over the term of the loan to figure out what deal suits you best.

The rollover ruse: Often, it's tempting to want to trade up to a more expensive car -- even before you've finished paying off the car you're currently driving. One way that some car buyers do this is by "rolling over" the remaining payments on their current car into a new car loan or lease. While this isn't illegal, it's risky. Why? You'll end up owing more on the second car than it's worth. In the parlance of the automobile world, you'll be "upside down" in the vehicle. If it's totaled in an accident, or if you decide down the road to trade it in, you'll end up writing out a big check to cover the remaining amount of the loan. Rule of thumb: Don't roll over an old car loan into a new one.
The long-term trick: There's nothing illegal or even deceptive about dealers offering loan periods extending out six or seven years. After all, many cars last longer than they used to, and longer loan terms mean your monthly payments are lower than they otherwise would be. Still, it's not optimal. You're likely to continually owe more on your car than it's worth, because your car is depreciating faster than you're paying it off. If you're considering a long loan period, you probably should scale back to a less expensive car better suited to your budget.

The balloon bamboozle: Similarly, some dealers will encourage you to purchase a car for unrealistically low monthly payments now, but with a balloon (inflated or much larger) payment at the end of the loan period. In a few cases, this can be a legitimate way to finance a car. For instance, you may just have graduated and can realistically assume that your income will rise by the time the balloon payment comes due. Be wary. That big payment could hit you when you're least able to pay it.

When Haggling Pays Off

Since you can't avoid the car salesperson's negotiating ploys, your only defense is to recognize what he's doing. You then have the chance to use some of those tactics yourself -- becoming the fisherman instead of the fish.
It's called haggling. How well you do it could be the key factor in determining the price you agree to pay for your new car.Here are some tactics you can use when negotiating a deal:

Invoke higher authority. In this tactic, the buyer and seller arrive at a tentative agreement, then one party has to get someone to OK the deal. Anyone who has haggled with a car salesperson is familiar with this tactic: You arrive at a price, then the salesperson has to get the sales manager's approval. Buyers can use this tactic, too. The wife can say she loves the car, but apologetically explains to the salesman that her husband won't budge unless the price is reduced. Or vice versa.

Never say yes to the first proposal. The first price the dealer tosses out in a negotiation will almost never be the best offer. So reject it out of hand. What's the worst that can happen? He won't budge and you go to another dealer.
Make sure to flinch. The most common tactical mistake that consumers make is to remain calm in the face of a proposal. It's better to flinch -- to appear shocked and surprised by an "outrageous" offer, even if it's not really unreasonable. You might think a stoic demeanor looks professional, but in the haggling business, it will cost you.
Squeeze your opponent: You say, 'I'm sorry, but you'll have to do better than that.' Then you shut up. Too many people just can't stay quiet; they blink and fill in the silence with words that drain all the power out of their rejection. Keep quiet. Chances are that you'll get a more reasonable offer.

Never offer to split the difference in price. Always wait for the other side to split the difference; it gives your opponent a feeling of winning and, if you split the difference again, it'll be in your favor.
Save a small concession. Hold back something you're willing to give up at the end so the other side can feel the satisfaction of winning something.

You might not feel comfortable using these tactics, but the experts say they'll be used on you.