Many used cars bought from a dealer have been "remarketed"
by James M. Flammang
Making decisions in a matter of seconds isn't easy. Yet, that's what buyers at the nation's wholesale used-car auctions do every day. At the auctions, which normally are open only to dealer representatives, the action is fast and the rewards are risky. Pay too much for a tempting car that's going through the line, and you might not make any money on it. Bid too little and you won't get the car at all, giving your dealership one less vehicle to sell at a profit.
To an uninitiated observer, the ceaseless, rapid-fire cries of the used-car auctioneer sound like gibberish. But to each of the hundreds of buyers attending a typical big auction, those pleas for bids are an endless flow of opportunity.
Buyer Beware?
In the consumer's eyes, auctions still suffer from a serious image problem. The best used car, we've been told repeatedly, is the one that comes directly from a private seller: a one-owner, seldom-driven, nearly spotless vehicle that the owner is willing to part with for a pittance. Cars that went through an auction have been viewed as the dregs of the business—the vehicles that should be avoided at all costs.
Auctions, in effect, were held responsible for the sins committed by unscrupulous used-car dealers, who marketed shoddy products at high prices. That sort of stigma persists today, even though the auction business is booming and its practitioners have been striving for years to change people's perceptions of how auctions work.
Odometer Rollbacks
Although dishonest used-car dealers have not disappeared, their numbers have been diminishing—due in part to policing of the business by the large auction groups. In the mid-1980s, for instance, ADT Automotive—then a top auction chain—played a role in making odometer "rollbacks" a federal crime.
Protecting consumers wasn't their sole reason for wanting to crack down on odometer "spinners." Dealers, too, can be victimized when odometers are set back to display lower figures. If a bidding dealer thinks a car has lower mileage than it actually has, and therefore pays more than the car is worth, potential profit can disappear if the inaccuracy is discovered.
Late in the 1990s, ADT also initiated a program for certifying vehicles that go through the auctions, following the theme of used-car certification programs that had been introduced by many automakers. Vehicles are carefully inspected before sale to dealers, who can then point to that process as a selling point on their retail lots. Certification remained active when ADT Automotive was bought by Manheim Auctions in 2000. Even when full certification is not offered, auctions often offer reconditioning and detailing services.
Manheim and ADESA are the leading auction chains, providing what are called "remarketing" services. In business for 55 years, Manheim alone operates 83 auction facilities in the U.S.
During 2000, new-vehicle sales set a record at 17.4 million units—15.1 million of them sold to private individuals. At the same time, dealers, according to Tom Webb, Mahheim's chief economist, sold 41.7 million used vehicles. Private transactions added another 10.5 million secondhand units to the mix.
Auctions handled nine million of those used vehicles. Nearly half had been consigned by dealers, while two million were consumer-leased vehicles being remarketed after their lease terms ended. The remaining 3 million came directly from manufacturers, offered at sales limited to franchised new-car dealers, or from daily rental companies and fleet organizations.
Of all the vehicles that go off-lease each year, about 62% are remarketed through auctions, according to research by CNW Marketing and Manheim. They wind up in the front lines at both new-car and independent used-car dealerships. During 2000, the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) reports that franchised new-car dealers obtained 32% of their used vehicles from an auction, versus 40% that were traded in on a new model and 22% traded on a newer used car. A title search should reveal if the vehicle was ever on the auction block.
Recession-Resistant
Auctions "have increased their acceptance in the marketplace," said Thomas Kontos, vice president of industry relations & analytical services at ADESA Corporation, who considers the business to be "recession-resistant." If the economic downturn continues through 2001, new-car sales are sure to suffer. "During a recession," Kontos explained, "consumers are less likely to sell their vehicles," preferring to hang onto them a while longer. At the same time, though, the demand for secondhand vehicles escalates—and the auctions are happy to comply.
While it always pays to be wary when shopping for a used car, the mere fact that a prospective purchase went through an auction at some point doesn't automatically consign it to the also-ran category. After all, the car could have been returned from lease by your neighbor, then remarketed via an auction. And who knows, you might even be able to buy it for less than your neighbor would have wanted for
Showing posts with label price. Show all posts
Showing posts with label price. Show all posts
Thursday, July 5, 2007
Thursday, May 24, 2007
20 Ways You Waste Money on Your Car!
Don't spend a nickel without a darned good reason. Bone up, wise up and don't let anyone lead you astray.
By Des Toups
Cars make us irrational. We call them our babies and lovingly wax them every Saturday -- or we turn up the radio to drown out the sound of a dragging muffler. Either mindset will cost you money, sometimes a lot of it.
Walking the line between obsession and neglect means you never spend a nickel without a good reason -- and good reasons can include spending money on something that’s not broken.
Here, then, are 20 ways you waste money on your car.
Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest gasoline that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.”
3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum.
Taking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western Nebraska. Better to pop for snow tires than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree.
Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn't "miss" -- skip a beat or make other odd noises -- don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so.
Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie.
Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it.
Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year.
Going to any old repair shop. At the very least, make sure it’s ASE-certified (a good housekeeping seal of approval from the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). From there, look for a well-kept shop with someone who’s willing to answer all your questions. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find.
Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack.
Replacing tires when you should be replacing shocks. If your tires are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out.
Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check -- you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car -- is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced.
Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Check Alldata and the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) to see if a technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued about the component in question. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk.
Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too.
Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price.
Overinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace? Add your deductible to your yearly bill for collision and comprehensive coverage, then compare that total with the wholesale value of the car. If it’s more than half, reconsider.
Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the $5 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that ominous “check engine” light itself that’s failed, not your alternator.
Not changing the fuel filter. Have it replaced as a part of your maintenance -- every two years or according to the manufacturer’s schedule -- rather than when it becomes clogged with grit, leaving you at the mercy of the nearest garage.
Not knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare? Make sure it’s up to snuff and all the parts of your jack are there. Changing a flat yourself is not only cheaper, it’s faster, too.
Not keeping your tires properly inflated. Check them once a month; otherwise, you’re wasting gasoline, risking a blowout and wearing them out more quickly.
Car washes. Ten bucks for long lines and gray water? Nothing shows you care like doing it yourself.
By Des Toups
Cars make us irrational. We call them our babies and lovingly wax them every Saturday -- or we turn up the radio to drown out the sound of a dragging muffler. Either mindset will cost you money, sometimes a lot of it.
Walking the line between obsession and neglect means you never spend a nickel without a good reason -- and good reasons can include spending money on something that’s not broken.
Here, then, are 20 ways you waste money on your car.
Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest gasoline that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.”
3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum.
Taking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western Nebraska. Better to pop for snow tires than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree.
Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn't "miss" -- skip a beat or make other odd noises -- don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so.
Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie.
Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it.
Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year.
Going to any old repair shop. At the very least, make sure it’s ASE-certified (a good housekeeping seal of approval from the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). From there, look for a well-kept shop with someone who’s willing to answer all your questions. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find.
Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack.
Replacing tires when you should be replacing shocks. If your tires are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out.
Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check -- you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car -- is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced.
Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Check Alldata and the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) to see if a technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued about the component in question. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk.
Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too.
Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price.
Overinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace? Add your deductible to your yearly bill for collision and comprehensive coverage, then compare that total with the wholesale value of the car. If it’s more than half, reconsider.
Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the $5 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that ominous “check engine” light itself that’s failed, not your alternator.
Not changing the fuel filter. Have it replaced as a part of your maintenance -- every two years or according to the manufacturer’s schedule -- rather than when it becomes clogged with grit, leaving you at the mercy of the nearest garage.
Not knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare? Make sure it’s up to snuff and all the parts of your jack are there. Changing a flat yourself is not only cheaper, it’s faster, too.
Not keeping your tires properly inflated. Check them once a month; otherwise, you’re wasting gasoline, risking a blowout and wearing them out more quickly.
Car washes. Ten bucks for long lines and gray water? Nothing shows you care like doing it yourself.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Are Pre-Owned Certified Vehicles Worth It?
By NADAguides.com
When you're looking for a pre-owned car, it can be difficult to know what the difference is between buying a certified or standard used vehicle. Our helpful tips can help ensure that you make the right decision!
Do your homework first
- See what you can afford -Sure that Italian speedster might look nice parked in your driveway, but is it really worth it? Before you waste any time looking at the wrong vehicles, determine what you can afford.
It's also a good idea to check your credit report. This will ensure there aren't any mistakes or other surprises that can negatively affect what type of loan you qualify for.
- Determine your needs - Decide what vehicle best fits your needs, along with your preferred options. These might include color, transmission type (manual or automatic), leather seats and more.
· Check out what others have to say - Sites such as NADAguides.com allow you to compare models, read reviews and much more. It's also a wise idea to check out the vehicle's repair history and see if it has had any recalls. The U.S. Department of Transportation's Auto Safety Hotline (1-800-424-9393) can help you.
Now that you're satisfied on your choice, another question needs to be addressed: Should you buy a new or certified pre-owned automobile? Let's explore this.
What is a certified pre-owned (CPO) automobile? Even though there are many used cars on the road, not every one of them qualifies for certification. Typically, a CPO vehicle is a used car that has gone through a rigorous inspection process and has an extended warranty beyond the car's existing warranty. The best way to describe a CPO car: One that needs very little reconditioning or was reconditioned to original factory specifications.
As a result of stringent guidelines and strict criteria associated with the CPO qualification process, certified pre-owned vehicles are guaranteed, or certified, by the manufacturer. For added peace of mind, virtually every certified pre-owned vehicle sold today comes with a comprehensive vehicle history report as back-up documentation in addition to comprehensive inspections and warranties.
What's involved with a typical certified pre-owned inspection process? Typically, cars that are newer than five years old with fewer than 50,000-60,000 miles and solid title histories are the only vehicles considered for certification. Once a car passes this initial test phase, it's put through a series of evaluations (further defined as the inspection process) to see if it meets the manufacturer's stringent guidelines for certification.
Most manufacturers offer anywhere from 100-point to 300-point inspections. We've organized these detailed inspections into six separate criteria.
· General evaluation: including safety systems, mirrors, lights, braking, steering, shifting and overall engine operation.
· Under hood evaluation: including the electrical system, engine cooling system, brake and ignition systems, belts, air conditioning and power steering.
· Exterior assessment: such as bumpers, front grill, doors, fenders, glass and wheels.
· Interior evaluation: including the instrument panel, seats, carpet, floor mats, headliner and general upholstery.
· Required service and maintenance assessment: such as lube, oil, filters, tire pressure and emissions.
· Exterior detailing analysis: including surface scratch reconditioning, tar and road oil removal, general washing and waxing, and engine compartment cleanliness.
Do certified pre-owned vehicles cost more? Yes, CPO vehicles typically cost more money than non-certified vehicles. They may be as little as $400 more than a non-certified used vehicle or as much as $2,800 more, depending on the brand and model. For some people, paying more money for a manufacturer-guaranteed vehicle is worth the extra cost.
For others, it's better to take the chance and purchase a non-certified used car for less money since there are a wealth of good-quality, mechanically-sound used cars on the road today that don't carry certifications
Is certified pre-owned right for me? Buying a certified pre-owned vehicle is purely a personal decision. As we've outlined in this section, pre-owned vehicles go through a stringent evaluation process and carry comprehensive warranties not typically offered with non-certified used cars.
While certification brings with it guarantees not commonly associated with pre-owned vehicles, it's not a surefire guarantee that something won't go wrong with the used car you're buying. However, consumers appreciate, and in most cases are willing to pay more for, a car that has been rigorously inspected and guaranteed by the manufacturer
When you're looking for a pre-owned car, it can be difficult to know what the difference is between buying a certified or standard used vehicle. Our helpful tips can help ensure that you make the right decision!
Do your homework first
- See what you can afford -Sure that Italian speedster might look nice parked in your driveway, but is it really worth it? Before you waste any time looking at the wrong vehicles, determine what you can afford.
It's also a good idea to check your credit report. This will ensure there aren't any mistakes or other surprises that can negatively affect what type of loan you qualify for.
- Determine your needs - Decide what vehicle best fits your needs, along with your preferred options. These might include color, transmission type (manual or automatic), leather seats and more.
· Check out what others have to say - Sites such as NADAguides.com allow you to compare models, read reviews and much more. It's also a wise idea to check out the vehicle's repair history and see if it has had any recalls. The U.S. Department of Transportation's Auto Safety Hotline (1-800-424-9393) can help you.
Now that you're satisfied on your choice, another question needs to be addressed: Should you buy a new or certified pre-owned automobile? Let's explore this.
What is a certified pre-owned (CPO) automobile? Even though there are many used cars on the road, not every one of them qualifies for certification. Typically, a CPO vehicle is a used car that has gone through a rigorous inspection process and has an extended warranty beyond the car's existing warranty. The best way to describe a CPO car: One that needs very little reconditioning or was reconditioned to original factory specifications.
As a result of stringent guidelines and strict criteria associated with the CPO qualification process, certified pre-owned vehicles are guaranteed, or certified, by the manufacturer. For added peace of mind, virtually every certified pre-owned vehicle sold today comes with a comprehensive vehicle history report as back-up documentation in addition to comprehensive inspections and warranties.
What's involved with a typical certified pre-owned inspection process? Typically, cars that are newer than five years old with fewer than 50,000-60,000 miles and solid title histories are the only vehicles considered for certification. Once a car passes this initial test phase, it's put through a series of evaluations (further defined as the inspection process) to see if it meets the manufacturer's stringent guidelines for certification.
Most manufacturers offer anywhere from 100-point to 300-point inspections. We've organized these detailed inspections into six separate criteria.
· General evaluation: including safety systems, mirrors, lights, braking, steering, shifting and overall engine operation.
· Under hood evaluation: including the electrical system, engine cooling system, brake and ignition systems, belts, air conditioning and power steering.
· Exterior assessment: such as bumpers, front grill, doors, fenders, glass and wheels.
· Interior evaluation: including the instrument panel, seats, carpet, floor mats, headliner and general upholstery.
· Required service and maintenance assessment: such as lube, oil, filters, tire pressure and emissions.
· Exterior detailing analysis: including surface scratch reconditioning, tar and road oil removal, general washing and waxing, and engine compartment cleanliness.
Do certified pre-owned vehicles cost more? Yes, CPO vehicles typically cost more money than non-certified vehicles. They may be as little as $400 more than a non-certified used vehicle or as much as $2,800 more, depending on the brand and model. For some people, paying more money for a manufacturer-guaranteed vehicle is worth the extra cost.
For others, it's better to take the chance and purchase a non-certified used car for less money since there are a wealth of good-quality, mechanically-sound used cars on the road today that don't carry certifications
Is certified pre-owned right for me? Buying a certified pre-owned vehicle is purely a personal decision. As we've outlined in this section, pre-owned vehicles go through a stringent evaluation process and carry comprehensive warranties not typically offered with non-certified used cars.
While certification brings with it guarantees not commonly associated with pre-owned vehicles, it's not a surefire guarantee that something won't go wrong with the used car you're buying. However, consumers appreciate, and in most cases are willing to pay more for, a car that has been rigorously inspected and guaranteed by the manufacturer
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
How to Say No When An Auto Salesperson Is Pressuring You
Being able to say no -- and mean it -- isn't just helpful when negotiating a car purchase. It's essential, says Philip Reed, consumer advice editor for auto research site Edmunds.com.
"The most effective way of saying no is saying it with your feet" by leaving the dealership when you don't get what you want, said Reed, author of "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers." "Some people say you should leave at least twice" before agreeing to buy a car.
You don't necessarily have to resort to that level of gamesmanship, Reed said, but you should find a salesperson who can take no for an answer.
Avoid the high pressure approach to car buying. Take your auto shopping on the Web. Click here to play the video.
"Car buying is a very expensive purchase with a lot of moving parts. . . . You need to be comfortable with your salesperson," Reed said. "You don't want someone who, when you say no, says, 'Well, why not?' or 'Didn't I tell you about this or that?' "
Using statements that can't really be argued, like "That's not my taste" or "I just don't want that," can help you fend off an aggressive salesperson, but a better solution is "if you're feeling uncomfortable, find someone else who understands no means no."
Extensively researching the car you want and arranging financing before you walk onto the lot can help you thwart attempts to sell you more car than you can afford. Being clear and consistent about what you're looking for will help, too, Grenny said, as can enlisting the salesperson to help you solve your problem rather than creating new ones.
"You can say something like, 'I want a year-old car with these features and I want to pay close to low Blue Book,' " Grenny said. " 'I'd also like you to make a reasonable profit. So how do we do that?' "
Negotiating the deal with the salesperson is usually only the first step. Many dealerships will also trot you to a "closer" as well as the "F&I" (financing and insurance) person. These folks may view your agreement with the salesperson as just the starting point for selling you more stuff you don't want.
Be upfront, Reed urged. "Tell them, 'I want to wrap this up as soon as possible. I don't want any after-sell,' " he said. That may short-circuit the sales pitch, or they may trot out a "deal" on the extended warranty or paint protection.
Repeating "I don't want to be rude, but I want to wrap this up," Reed said, should deflate any further attempts. If not -- once again -- say no with your feet. You can say something like, "Wow, this deal is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought. I guess we can't go through with it today." Chances are the pitches will stop
"The most effective way of saying no is saying it with your feet" by leaving the dealership when you don't get what you want, said Reed, author of "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers." "Some people say you should leave at least twice" before agreeing to buy a car.
You don't necessarily have to resort to that level of gamesmanship, Reed said, but you should find a salesperson who can take no for an answer.
Avoid the high pressure approach to car buying. Take your auto shopping on the Web. Click here to play the video.
"Car buying is a very expensive purchase with a lot of moving parts. . . . You need to be comfortable with your salesperson," Reed said. "You don't want someone who, when you say no, says, 'Well, why not?' or 'Didn't I tell you about this or that?' "
Using statements that can't really be argued, like "That's not my taste" or "I just don't want that," can help you fend off an aggressive salesperson, but a better solution is "if you're feeling uncomfortable, find someone else who understands no means no."
Extensively researching the car you want and arranging financing before you walk onto the lot can help you thwart attempts to sell you more car than you can afford. Being clear and consistent about what you're looking for will help, too, Grenny said, as can enlisting the salesperson to help you solve your problem rather than creating new ones.
"You can say something like, 'I want a year-old car with these features and I want to pay close to low Blue Book,' " Grenny said. " 'I'd also like you to make a reasonable profit. So how do we do that?' "
Negotiating the deal with the salesperson is usually only the first step. Many dealerships will also trot you to a "closer" as well as the "F&I" (financing and insurance) person. These folks may view your agreement with the salesperson as just the starting point for selling you more stuff you don't want.
Be upfront, Reed urged. "Tell them, 'I want to wrap this up as soon as possible. I don't want any after-sell,' " he said. That may short-circuit the sales pitch, or they may trot out a "deal" on the extended warranty or paint protection.
Repeating "I don't want to be rude, but I want to wrap this up," Reed said, should deflate any further attempts. If not -- once again -- say no with your feet. You can say something like, "Wow, this deal is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought. I guess we can't go through with it today." Chances are the pitches will stop
Top Dealer Tricks To Watch Out For!
At the core, most dealers aren't out to rip you off. But they employ experienced and aggressive salespeople who have a bag of tricks designed to maximize the salesperson's cut and the dealer's profit.
The credit cozen: Some dealers may say something like, "With your credit score, you won't qualify for competitive financing rates.'' This may be true. However, some dealers will imply your credit is worse than it is so that you think you'll have to pay a higher interest rate. That's why it's important to know your credit score before you head to the showroom.
The single transaction strategy: Many people view buying a car as one transaction. It's not, and dealers know this. It's really three transactions rolled into one -- the new-car price, the trade-in value, and the financing. The dealer sees all three as ways to make money. Treat each of these as separate transactions, and negotiate each one. If you get a new car for $200 over invoice, but receive only $1,000 for a trade-in car that's worth $2,500, you haven't done as well as you could.
The payment ploy: A dealer might say, "We can get you into this car for only $389 a month.'' Probably true, but how? In some cases, the dealer may have factored in a large down payment, or may have stretched the term of the loan out to 60 or 72 months. Focus on the price of the car rather than the monthly payment. Never answer the question, "How much can you pay each month?'' Stick to saying, "I can afford to pay X-dollars for the car.''
The sticker shenanigan: The vehicle price listed on the window is what's known as the MSRP, or manufacturer's suggested retail price. Who cares? You want to know the invoice price -- the amount the dealer paid for it. Working from the invoice up is much easier than trying to cut dollars from the MSRP. You should also find out what cars actually are selling for, after taking into account any consumer and dealer incentives. Of course, some really hot cars go for sticker price and even above. Be patient and wait: The prices will fall as demand slacks off. And three years later, you'll be selling or trading a car for the same money as the early buyers who may have paid thousands more initially
The holdback hustle: Manufacturers often give cash incentives -- sometimes called a "holdback'' -- to their dealers to encourage them to move slow-selling models. This typically isn't mentioned in advertisements. You'll want to search for holdbacks or other factory-to-dealer incentives available for the car you're considering. While it's not a given that the dealer will apply any of these funds to the car you like, it doesn't hurt to ask.
The financing four-flush: Some dealers have been known to call customers days or even weeks after they signed a purchase agreement to tell them that the financing fell through. It's a crock. The dealer can know if you qualify for financing almost instantly. The goal? To sign you up for a loan with a higher interest rate because, according to them, they just found out you didn't qualify for the lower rate. Never leave the showroom without signed contracts that spell out every detail and with every blank filled in. If you've got that, they can't roll back on the financing.
The insurance illusion: Some dealers may try hard to get you to purchase an insurance policy when you're buying your car. One type, gap insurance, covers the difference between what the car is worth and the amount you still owe on it. Say the car is worth $10,000 but you still owe $12,000. If your car is a total loss, a gap insurance policy will cover that $2,000 difference. But don't automatically agree to it. Some insurers include the benefits of gap insurance in their regular comprehensive automobile coverage, so check there first. Also, gap insurance is generally quite inexpensive when purchased from your regular insurance company rather than a dealer. Another favorite, credit life insurance, will pay the balance of your loan if you die before you've been able to repay it. These policies may or may not make sense for you -- although in most cases you should decline all such offers. If these policies interest you, you'll want to understand what you're purchasing, and have the opportunity to decline it and shop around for better prices. The mark-up on these policies at the dealership can be enormous, in part because the insurance companies that sell the policies to the dealerships offer them huge incentives -- everything from cash to first-class trips -- to push them.
The rate razzle-dazzle: It certainly sounds tempting -- zero percent interest to finance a new car. However, this deal may not be the best one for your pocketbook. For starters, most financing incentives are for shorter terms and you need a stellar credit record. With very short-term loans, such as 24 or 36 months, payments on even a moderately priced car can be sky high. In addition, you may be better off finding your own financing, and then taking the dealer rebate, if one is offered. Say you're looking at a $20,000 car and will get $4,000 on your trade-in. You can choose between zero-percent financing, or financing at 3.49 percent with a $2,000 rebate. The term of the loan is 36 months. Over the course of the loan, you'll come out ahead by more than $1,200 if you take the rebate and the 3.49 percent financing. Use our calculator to compute the actual dollars over the term of the loan to figure out what deal suits you best.
The rollover ruse: Often, it's tempting to want to trade up to a more expensive car -- even before you've finished paying off the car you're currently driving. One way that some car buyers do this is by "rolling over" the remaining payments on their current car into a new car loan or lease. While this isn't illegal, it's risky. Why? You'll end up owing more on the second car than it's worth. In the parlance of the automobile world, you'll be "upside down" in the vehicle. If it's totaled in an accident, or if you decide down the road to trade it in, you'll end up writing out a big check to cover the remaining amount of the loan. Rule of thumb: Don't roll over an old car loan into a new one.
The long-term trick: There's nothing illegal or even deceptive about dealers offering loan periods extending out six or seven years. After all, many cars last longer than they used to, and longer loan terms mean your monthly payments are lower than they otherwise would be. Still, it's not optimal. You're likely to continually owe more on your car than it's worth, because your car is depreciating faster than you're paying it off. If you're considering a long loan period, you probably should scale back to a less expensive car better suited to your budget.
The balloon bamboozle: Similarly, some dealers will encourage you to purchase a car for unrealistically low monthly payments now, but with a balloon (inflated or much larger) payment at the end of the loan period. In a few cases, this can be a legitimate way to finance a car. For instance, you may just have graduated and can realistically assume that your income will rise by the time the balloon payment comes due. Be wary. That big payment could hit you when you're least able to pay it.
The credit cozen: Some dealers may say something like, "With your credit score, you won't qualify for competitive financing rates.'' This may be true. However, some dealers will imply your credit is worse than it is so that you think you'll have to pay a higher interest rate. That's why it's important to know your credit score before you head to the showroom.
The single transaction strategy: Many people view buying a car as one transaction. It's not, and dealers know this. It's really three transactions rolled into one -- the new-car price, the trade-in value, and the financing. The dealer sees all three as ways to make money. Treat each of these as separate transactions, and negotiate each one. If you get a new car for $200 over invoice, but receive only $1,000 for a trade-in car that's worth $2,500, you haven't done as well as you could.
The payment ploy: A dealer might say, "We can get you into this car for only $389 a month.'' Probably true, but how? In some cases, the dealer may have factored in a large down payment, or may have stretched the term of the loan out to 60 or 72 months. Focus on the price of the car rather than the monthly payment. Never answer the question, "How much can you pay each month?'' Stick to saying, "I can afford to pay X-dollars for the car.''
The sticker shenanigan: The vehicle price listed on the window is what's known as the MSRP, or manufacturer's suggested retail price. Who cares? You want to know the invoice price -- the amount the dealer paid for it. Working from the invoice up is much easier than trying to cut dollars from the MSRP. You should also find out what cars actually are selling for, after taking into account any consumer and dealer incentives. Of course, some really hot cars go for sticker price and even above. Be patient and wait: The prices will fall as demand slacks off. And three years later, you'll be selling or trading a car for the same money as the early buyers who may have paid thousands more initially
The holdback hustle: Manufacturers often give cash incentives -- sometimes called a "holdback'' -- to their dealers to encourage them to move slow-selling models. This typically isn't mentioned in advertisements. You'll want to search for holdbacks or other factory-to-dealer incentives available for the car you're considering. While it's not a given that the dealer will apply any of these funds to the car you like, it doesn't hurt to ask.
The financing four-flush: Some dealers have been known to call customers days or even weeks after they signed a purchase agreement to tell them that the financing fell through. It's a crock. The dealer can know if you qualify for financing almost instantly. The goal? To sign you up for a loan with a higher interest rate because, according to them, they just found out you didn't qualify for the lower rate. Never leave the showroom without signed contracts that spell out every detail and with every blank filled in. If you've got that, they can't roll back on the financing.
The insurance illusion: Some dealers may try hard to get you to purchase an insurance policy when you're buying your car. One type, gap insurance, covers the difference between what the car is worth and the amount you still owe on it. Say the car is worth $10,000 but you still owe $12,000. If your car is a total loss, a gap insurance policy will cover that $2,000 difference. But don't automatically agree to it. Some insurers include the benefits of gap insurance in their regular comprehensive automobile coverage, so check there first. Also, gap insurance is generally quite inexpensive when purchased from your regular insurance company rather than a dealer. Another favorite, credit life insurance, will pay the balance of your loan if you die before you've been able to repay it. These policies may or may not make sense for you -- although in most cases you should decline all such offers. If these policies interest you, you'll want to understand what you're purchasing, and have the opportunity to decline it and shop around for better prices. The mark-up on these policies at the dealership can be enormous, in part because the insurance companies that sell the policies to the dealerships offer them huge incentives -- everything from cash to first-class trips -- to push them.
The rate razzle-dazzle: It certainly sounds tempting -- zero percent interest to finance a new car. However, this deal may not be the best one for your pocketbook. For starters, most financing incentives are for shorter terms and you need a stellar credit record. With very short-term loans, such as 24 or 36 months, payments on even a moderately priced car can be sky high. In addition, you may be better off finding your own financing, and then taking the dealer rebate, if one is offered. Say you're looking at a $20,000 car and will get $4,000 on your trade-in. You can choose between zero-percent financing, or financing at 3.49 percent with a $2,000 rebate. The term of the loan is 36 months. Over the course of the loan, you'll come out ahead by more than $1,200 if you take the rebate and the 3.49 percent financing. Use our calculator to compute the actual dollars over the term of the loan to figure out what deal suits you best.
The rollover ruse: Often, it's tempting to want to trade up to a more expensive car -- even before you've finished paying off the car you're currently driving. One way that some car buyers do this is by "rolling over" the remaining payments on their current car into a new car loan or lease. While this isn't illegal, it's risky. Why? You'll end up owing more on the second car than it's worth. In the parlance of the automobile world, you'll be "upside down" in the vehicle. If it's totaled in an accident, or if you decide down the road to trade it in, you'll end up writing out a big check to cover the remaining amount of the loan. Rule of thumb: Don't roll over an old car loan into a new one.
The long-term trick: There's nothing illegal or even deceptive about dealers offering loan periods extending out six or seven years. After all, many cars last longer than they used to, and longer loan terms mean your monthly payments are lower than they otherwise would be. Still, it's not optimal. You're likely to continually owe more on your car than it's worth, because your car is depreciating faster than you're paying it off. If you're considering a long loan period, you probably should scale back to a less expensive car better suited to your budget.
The balloon bamboozle: Similarly, some dealers will encourage you to purchase a car for unrealistically low monthly payments now, but with a balloon (inflated or much larger) payment at the end of the loan period. In a few cases, this can be a legitimate way to finance a car. For instance, you may just have graduated and can realistically assume that your income will rise by the time the balloon payment comes due. Be wary. That big payment could hit you when you're least able to pay it.
When Haggling Pays Off
Since you can't avoid the car salesperson's negotiating ploys, your only defense is to recognize what he's doing. You then have the chance to use some of those tactics yourself -- becoming the fisherman instead of the fish.
It's called haggling. How well you do it could be the key factor in determining the price you agree to pay for your new car.Here are some tactics you can use when negotiating a deal:
Invoke higher authority. In this tactic, the buyer and seller arrive at a tentative agreement, then one party has to get someone to OK the deal. Anyone who has haggled with a car salesperson is familiar with this tactic: You arrive at a price, then the salesperson has to get the sales manager's approval. Buyers can use this tactic, too. The wife can say she loves the car, but apologetically explains to the salesman that her husband won't budge unless the price is reduced. Or vice versa.
Never say yes to the first proposal. The first price the dealer tosses out in a negotiation will almost never be the best offer. So reject it out of hand. What's the worst that can happen? He won't budge and you go to another dealer.
Make sure to flinch. The most common tactical mistake that consumers make is to remain calm in the face of a proposal. It's better to flinch -- to appear shocked and surprised by an "outrageous" offer, even if it's not really unreasonable. You might think a stoic demeanor looks professional, but in the haggling business, it will cost you.
Squeeze your opponent: You say, 'I'm sorry, but you'll have to do better than that.' Then you shut up. Too many people just can't stay quiet; they blink and fill in the silence with words that drain all the power out of their rejection. Keep quiet. Chances are that you'll get a more reasonable offer.
Never offer to split the difference in price. Always wait for the other side to split the difference; it gives your opponent a feeling of winning and, if you split the difference again, it'll be in your favor.
Save a small concession. Hold back something you're willing to give up at the end so the other side can feel the satisfaction of winning something.
You might not feel comfortable using these tactics, but the experts say they'll be used on you.
It's called haggling. How well you do it could be the key factor in determining the price you agree to pay for your new car.Here are some tactics you can use when negotiating a deal:
Invoke higher authority. In this tactic, the buyer and seller arrive at a tentative agreement, then one party has to get someone to OK the deal. Anyone who has haggled with a car salesperson is familiar with this tactic: You arrive at a price, then the salesperson has to get the sales manager's approval. Buyers can use this tactic, too. The wife can say she loves the car, but apologetically explains to the salesman that her husband won't budge unless the price is reduced. Or vice versa.
Never say yes to the first proposal. The first price the dealer tosses out in a negotiation will almost never be the best offer. So reject it out of hand. What's the worst that can happen? He won't budge and you go to another dealer.
Make sure to flinch. The most common tactical mistake that consumers make is to remain calm in the face of a proposal. It's better to flinch -- to appear shocked and surprised by an "outrageous" offer, even if it's not really unreasonable. You might think a stoic demeanor looks professional, but in the haggling business, it will cost you.
Squeeze your opponent: You say, 'I'm sorry, but you'll have to do better than that.' Then you shut up. Too many people just can't stay quiet; they blink and fill in the silence with words that drain all the power out of their rejection. Keep quiet. Chances are that you'll get a more reasonable offer.
Never offer to split the difference in price. Always wait for the other side to split the difference; it gives your opponent a feeling of winning and, if you split the difference again, it'll be in your favor.
Save a small concession. Hold back something you're willing to give up at the end so the other side can feel the satisfaction of winning something.
You might not feel comfortable using these tactics, but the experts say they'll be used on you.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
