Key financing questions you should ask

By Bankrate.com

Here are some questions that you must ask when discussing financing. Write them down or print them out before going to the dealer. Make sure you get answers to these questions that you fully understand. If anything is vague or confusing, walk away and come back after you've had time to think about it. If the sales or finance person makes a claim you think is too good to be true, have them write it on the finance contract and get a manager to sign off.

1. What's the interest rate I'm really paying? The APR (annual percentage rate) is the best way to know what interest you are paying. It is the actual interest rate you pay annually on the unpaid balance of the loan. The rate you are offered will to a large extent depend on your credit score, a number that dealers get from your credit report.

2. Are there any possible penalties in my loan? Does paying the loan off early entail penalties? Are there any other possible extra charges that could occur during the term of my loan? Are there "hidden charges'' that effectively are penalties?

3. What is the precise (down to the penny) price I'm paying for the vehicle?

4. What is the total amount (be exact) being financed?

5. What's the dollar amount I'm paying for the credit (finance charge)?

6. What's the exact amount of each payment?

7. What is the total number of payments?

8. Is this deal contingent on getting subsequent approval of the financing from a third party? Some dealers will send you out the door with a car then call a day or two later to say they couldn't get you financed at the rate they quoted, but they have found a lender who will cover the loan at a higher payment. Don't fall for this. Make sure you know who the lender is and that the deal is sealed before leaving the lot. If there's any question, tell the dealer you'll come back and get the car when everything is settled.

9. What about credit insurance? Your lender may offer, or even demand, credit insurance. First, find out exactly what it will cost you. If you have an existing insurance policy that covers the same thing, make a thorough comparison. It's not required by federal law, and check your state's requirement (through the office of your attorney general or insurance commissioner) if your lender requires it. It's very rare that any do. But if you must pay, make sure it is included in the cost of your credit and see where it is reflected in the APR you are paying

Close the gap in your car insurance

What could make a bad car deal worse? A wreck that leaves you owing thousands on a car you don't own anymore.

By Liz Pulliam Weston

If you did everything wrong while acquiring your last vehicle, you may still be able to do at least one thing right. And that's buying so-called "gap insurance."

Gap insurance kicks in when the amount your insurer would pay for your totaled or stolen car falls short of what you still owe on the loan or lease.

Chances are good you need gap insurance if:

You purchased a new car and didn't have a down payment of at least 20%.
You're leasing a car.
You're financing for more than four years.
You rolled debt from your last car into your current auto loan.
I outlined why these car-buying practices are usually bad ideas in "The real reason you're broke." They are, unfortunately, fairly common scenarios that typically leave people "upside down," or owing more on their cars than the vehicles are worth.

Yet gap insurance remains a relatively unknown product, said Patrick Olsen, managing editor of Cars.com.
"As soon as you drive off the lot, depreciation kicks in," Olsen said. "I don't think people are aware of the danger they could be in."

If you don't make a 20% down payment, for example, you'll be upside-down on the car from the minute you drive off the lot, and you'll typically stay that way for two to three years, depending on the length of your loan. If you get in an accident or the car is stolen during that time, you may be in trouble.

"The insurance company will pay you what the vehicle is (currently) worth, and that's not necessary the same as what you owe," said Mike Meredith, financial editor for MSN Autos. "It could be a lot less."

You could be pushed over the edge

Here's an example. You buy or lease a car for around $25,000. Several months down the road, it's totaled, but your insurance check covers only the car's current value, which is about $20,000. Not only do you have to find new wheels, but you're on the hook to the finance or lease company for that $5,000 gap. It's not uncommon for cars to lose two-thirds of their value in just three years.

If you rolled debt from your old loan into your new one, that amount you owe could be even larger. One out of four vehicles that are financed includes debt rolled over from a previous vehicle, according to vehicle research site Edmunds.com, and the average amount of so-called "negative equity" is more than $4,000.

If your finances are already shaky, the gap between what you owe and what you're paid could be enough to push you right over the edge.

"It could be the difference between staying afloat and having to declare bankruptcy," said Phil Reed, consumer advice editor for Edmunds.com and co-author of the book "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers." At a minimum, you could be saddled with expensive and unwelcome debt.

If you're not sure where you stand, you can use the Kelley Blue Book tool on MSN Autos to see how much your car is really worth and compare that to what you owe. Insurers typically pay an amount somewhere between the car's trade-in value and what you'd get in a private sale.

Not to worry
Now, there are two scenarios where underwater drivers don't have to worry about gap insurance:
If it's already included in your lease. In some states, including New York, leases by law must include gap coverage, Olsen said.
If your auto policy is written to cover the gap. This isn't the norm, but some auto policies promise to pay off a loan regardless of what the car's worth. You can try reading your policy to see if you're covered for any gaps, or simply call your insurer and ask.
If you don't have coverage already, the solution fortunately doesn't have to be that expensive. A premium of a few hundred dollars should cover you for the life of the loan or lease. You typically can buy the coverage:

From the dealership or auto finance company. It's probably the most expensive choice, especially if you roll the cost into your monthly note. You'll be paying interest on it, plus paying for coverage even after you're no longer upside-down on your loan.
From your current auto insurer. It's usually the best choice, if your insurer offers the coverage. Farmers Insurance, for example, offers gap coverage at a flat rate of $25 every six months to Washington drivers. You can drop it once you're sure you're in the black.
From another insurance carrier. You can look for gap insurance providers; make sure they have top marks from one of the rating services such as A.M. Best, Standard & Poor's or TheStreet.com Ratings (formerly Weiss Ratings).
The best time to shop for coverage is before you even set foot on the dealer's lot, Reed said. He advises calling your insurer to get a quote for coverage as soon as you decide what car you're going to buy. But all isn't lost if you fail to plan that far ahead.

"It'll be cheaper through your agent than through a dealership," Reed said, "but you can always buy it (at the dealership) and cancel it later" once you've got coverage with your insurer.

If you're a savvy enough negotiator, you may be able to get the dealership to lower its premium, Meredith said, particularly if you already know what coverage would cost through your insurer.

Some dealerships and insurers require you to get the coverage when you buy the car, but others let you add it later. If you don't have gap coverage and need it, it's worth the effort to search for a company that will sell it to you.

Like most insurance, it's something you may never need, Meredith said, but "it's a really good thing to have if you need it."
Liz Pulliam Weston's column appears every Monday and Thursday, exclusively on MSN Money. She also answers reader questions in the Your Money message board.

12 Secrets Your Car Insurer Won't Tell You

Knowing how the industry works can save you a lot of money and grief. Here are the secrets behind the premiums, and how you can save after an accident.

By MSN Money staff

Getting a good deal on auto insurance is hard enough. Keeping your premiums from rising? That can feel like playing a game where the rule maker refuses to tell you the rules.

Here are a dozen ways the industry works, with tips to help you save:

If you have good credit, you'll pay less. Almost all insurers -- including the top five -- pull your credit report. Why? Studies have shown a direct correlation between your credit score and the likelihood that you will file a claim. Insurers also know that if you pay your bills in a timely fashion and have had the same credit accounts for a long time, you're more stable than someone who pays late and frequently opens and closes accounts. They use this information to create your "insurance risk score," which is one factor that determines your auto-insurance rate.
Tip: Your insurance-risk score is not available to you, but it may be similar to your credit score. If you have unusual credit activity, wait a month for it to return to normal before buying auto insurance. If your credit history is shaky, clean it up as soon as you can.

Your car model affects your premium. You won't get these numbers from your insurer; in fact, you may not be able to get them at all. But the auto insurers do have a rating system for every car make and model. Most use a system devised by the Insurance Services Office, which starts with the cost of the vehicle and then factors in safety and theft data. Cars are given a rating from 1 to 27, and the higher the number, the higher your premium.
Pay in full to avoid installment fees. "Fractional premium" fees are usually charged when you pay your annual premium in installments rather all at once. Payments usually are offered on a six-month, quarterly or monthly basis, but almost every insurance company charges an administrative fee for breaking up the payments. The more you break it down, the more those fees add up.
Tip: Ask about fees for paying in installments. If the fees are small enough, it may be worth it. Remember that insurance companies can cancel your policy for late payment, many times with minimal notification, so make sure you won't miss an installment. If you can pay the premium up front, it may simplify the process and save you a few dollars.

That Pearl Jam CD in your car isn't covered. Stolen or damaged personal items like compact discs aren't covered by your auto insurance.

Tip: You can file a claim on your home insurance. Most home-insurance policies will cover smaller, less expensive items such as compact discs. However, if you carry expensive items such as computer equipment, ask about a rider to your home-insurance policy. It's wise to take photos or video of any expensive personal items before they go missing.

Bad drivers will pay You'll pay for your bad driving. The industry standard is to increase your premium by 40% of the insurer's base rate after your first at-fault accident. For example, if the company's base rate is $400, your premium will go up by $160. Not all auto insurers play by this rule, though, and some may increase your individual rate by 40%. Regardless of what formula they use, in the majority of cases, your rates will go up.

Tip: Some insurance companies have a "forgive the first accident" policy. The qualifying variables are wide-ranging, so ask your company if it has a forgiveness policy and how to qualify.

You'll pay for your friend's bad driving, too. If your friend borrows your car and crashes it, you'll have to file a claim with your insurance company. You'll have to pay any deductible that applies, and your rates will probably go up as a result of your claim.

Tip: If your friend didn't have permission to take your car, in most cases you won't be held liable for the damage. But if your friend is uninsured and causes damage that exceeds your policy limits, the injured party can come after you for medical and property-damage expenses. Best bet? Don't lend out your car.

The value of your "totaled" car may surprise you. Auto-insurance companies don't use the standard Kelley Blue Book or National Association of Automobile Dealers value. Instead, each company has its own proprietary list of car values, and most have specialized software for valuing cars in each region. They take into consideration the car's mileage and pre-accident condition.

The insurance company may also ask local dealers what they'd charge for a similar replacement car. However, the insurer will consider quotes from suburban towns as reasonable estimates, even if you live in the city. You might have to drive several hours to reach the cheapest dealer, just to save the insurance company money. And they might be quoted a better deal than you could get if you walked onto the lot.

Tip: If you disagree with your insurance company's value determination, there are several things you can do:
Next time, get "gap" insurance. It will pay the difference between what an insurer will cover and what you owe, which can be several thousand dollars.

If you have maintenance records that show you've had the oil changed every 3,000 miles and you've had the car checked routinely by a mechanic, present copies to the insurance company to show the car was in good condition. If you've been paying premiums on any special parts or upgrades, make sure those are included in the insurance company's evaluation.

Get price quotes on replacement cars from three dealers within a reasonable driving distance and submit these to your insurance company. Ask the insurance company for a list of dealers within a specific distance who can sell you an equivalent car for the value the company is claiming.

If you still aren't satisfied, you can step up the process and go to mediation or arbitration. Mediation involves presenting your case to a neutral party for help in reaching a compromise; arbitration is a binding decision. You can also, of course, take the issue to court.

Check into "diminished value." Say your car has been in an accident, but repaired. Is it worth less than the exact same car that hasn't been in an accident? It's a hot topic, but some say yes. In 14 states, you're allowed to file a claim with your insurance company for that lost value.

Tip: Thirty-six states and Washington, D.C., allow insurance companies to exclude payments for diminished value, so if you live in one of those states, you won't get to claim the loss. But in Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Kansas, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, North Carolina, South Dakota, Texas, Virginia, Washington and West Virginia, you have a chance of getting a diminished-value payment. If you weren't at fault in the accident, you often can make a successful case against the insurance company of the driver who was at fault.


You may not owe sales tax on your replacement car. Twenty-eight states require auto insurers to pay for the sales tax when you replace your totaled vehicle with a new or used car: Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Dakota, Vermont, Washington, West Virginia and Wisconsin.

Tip: Make the request; don't expect the insurer to offer to pay upfront. Even in states that do not require sales-tax reimbursement, you should request it. Many auto insurers will not deny the request because the policy requires that they make you "whole," returning you to where you were before the accident at no cost to you.
-Accident value of your car. If the insurance company values your car at $10,000, and you purchase a new car for $20,000, the tax will be calculated on $10,000.

Odds and ends

Hit by an uninsured motorist? Try to "stack." Stacking uninsured/underinsured motorist (UM/UIM) coverages means collecting from more than one auto-insurance policy that you hold. Most states forbid this practice, but 19 states allow it or don't address it.

Tip: Check the language of your policy to see if stacking is allowed.

There are two scenarios for stacking: First, if you have multiple cars on your policy with UM/UIM coverage on each, you can collect the limit of your UM/UIM coverage under as many vehicles as necessary to cover full payment for damages. Second, if you have more than one policy with UM/UIM coverage, even if they're from two different insurers, you can make a claim under each policy until all your damages are recovered.

You can wait to add your teenager to your policy until he or she is licensed. You are not required to add your teenager to your policy just because he or she has reached driving age. In most cases, you can wait until he or she has a license -- or, if you're in a high-risk insurance pool, a permit.

Tip: Don't forget to tell your insurance company that you have a licensed teen. If you have to file a claim on his or her behalf, your insurance company is entitled to charge you back premiums from the date your teen received a license.

You must officially cancel your insurance policy when you switch insurers. Your policy most likely states that you can cancel your coverage at any time by notifying the company in writing of the date of termination. However, most people assume that if they decide to terminate the policy at the end of the coverage period, all they have to do is ignore the bill. The insurance companies don't see it that way. They will send you another bill for the next premium payment, and when you don't pay it, the company will cancel you for nonpayment. That goes on your credit record.
Tip: Call your insurance agent or the company and let him know you are canceling your policy. Give a specific date, or you may end up uninsured for a period of time. The company will send you a cancellation request. Most often, the form is already filled out and all it requires is your signature. Make sure you read it to check for errors.

You may have to prove to your former insurance company that you have new coverage. And if you've financed your car through a dealership, update the dealer on your new insurance information, because purchase contracts often require proof of coverage.

Updated April 18, 2007