Buying A New Car

A new car is second only to a home as the most expensive purchase many consumers make. According to the National Automobile Dealers Association, the average price of a new car sold in the United States is $28,400. That’s why it’s important to know how to make a smart deal.

Buying Your New Car

Think about what car model and options you want and how much you’re willing to spend. Do some research. You’ll be less likely to feel pressured into making a hasty or expensive decision at the showroom and more likely to get a better deal.

Consider these suggestions:

• Check publications at a library or bookstore, or on the Internet, that discuss new car features and prices. These may provide information on the dealer’s costs for specific models and options.
  
• Shop around to get the best possible price by comparing models and prices in ads and at dealer showrooms. You also may want to contact car-buying services and broker-buying services to make comparisons.
  
• Plan to negotiate on price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin, often between 10 and 20 percent.

Usually, this is the difference between the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) and the invoice price.Because the price is a factor in the dealer’s calculations regardless of whether you pay cash or finance your car — and also affects your monthly payments — negotiating the price can save you money.

Consider ordering your new car if you don’t see what you want on the dealer’s lot. This may involve a delay, but cars on the lot may have options you don’t want — and that can raise the price. However, dealers often want to sell their current inventory quickly, so you may be able to negotiate a good deal if an in-stock car meets your needs.

Learning the Terms

Negotiations often have a vocabulary of their own. Here are some terms you may hear when you’re talking price

• .Invoice Price is the manufacturer’s initial charge to the dealer. This usually is higher than the dealer’s final cost because dealers receive rebates, allowances, discounts, and incentive awards. Generally, the invoice price should include freight (also known as destination and delivery). If you’re buying a car based on the invoice price (for example, “at invoice,” “$100 below invoice,” “two percent above invoice”) and if freight is already included, make sure freight isn’t added again to the sales contract.
  
• Base Price is the cost of the car without options, but includes standard equipment and factory warranty. This price is printed on the Monroney sticker.
  
• Monroney Sticker Price (MSRP) shows the base price, the manufacturer’s installed options with the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, the manufac-turer’s transportation charge, and the fuel economy (mileage). Affixed to the car window, this label is required by federal law, and may be removed only by the purchaser.
  
• Dealer Sticker Price, usually on a supplemental sticker, is the Monroney sticker price plus the suggested retail price of dealer-installed options, such as additional dealer markup (ADM) or additional dealer profit (ADP), dealer preparation, and undercoating.
  

Financing Your New Car

If you decide to finance your car, be aware that the financing obtained by the dealer, even if the dealer contacts lenders on your behalf, may not be the best deal you can get. Contact lenders directly. Compare the financing they offer you with the financing the dealer offers you. Because offers vary, shop around for the best deal, comparing the annual percentage rate (APR) and the length of the loan. When negotiating to finance a car, be wary of focusing only on the monthly payment. The total amount you will pay depends on the price of the car you negotiate, the APR, and the length of the loan.

Sometimes, dealers offer very low financing rates for specific cars or models, but may not be willing to negotiate on the price of these cars. To qualify for the special rates, you may be required to make a large down payment. With these conditions, you may find that it’s sometimes more affordable to pay higher financing charges on a car that is lower in price or to buy a car that requires a smaller down payment.

Before you sign a contract to purchase or finance the car, consider the terms of the financing and evaluate whether it is affordable. Before you drive off the lot, be sure to have a copy of the contract that both you and the dealer have signed and be sure that all blanks are filled in.

Some dealers and lenders may ask you to buy credit insurance to pay off your loan if you should die or become disabled. Before you buy credit insurance, consider the cost, and whether it’s worthwhile. Check your existing policies to avoid duplicating benefits. Credit insurance is not required by federal law. If your dealer requires you to buy credit insurance for car financing, it must be included in the cost of credit. That is, it must be reflected in the APR. Your state Attorney General also may have requirements about credit insurance. Check with your state Insurance Commissioner or state consumer protection agency.

Trading in Your Old Car

Discuss the possibility of a trade-in only after you’ve negotiated the best possible price for your new car and after you’ve researched the value of your old car. Check the library for reference books or magazines that can tell you how much it is worth. This information may help you get a better price from the dealer. Though it may take longer to sell your car yourself, you generally will get more money than if you trade it in.

Considering a Service Contract

Service contracts that you may buy with a new car provide for the repair of certain parts or problems. These contracts are offered by manufacturers, dealers, or independent companies and may or may not provide coverage beyond the manufac-turer’s warranty. Remember that a warranty is included in the price of the car while a service contract costs extra.

Before deciding to purchase a service contract, read it carefully and consider these questions:

• What’s the difference between the coverage under the warranty and the coverage under the service contract?
  
• What repairs are covered?
  
• Is routine maintenance covered?
  
• Who pays for the labor? The parts?
  
• Who performs the repairs? Can repairs be made elsewhere?
  
• How long does the service contract last?
  
• What are the cancellation and refund policies?

To File a Complaint

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit www.ftc.gov or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

12 Secrets Your Car Insurer Won't Tell You

Knowing how the industry works can save you a lot of money and grief. Here are the secrets behind the premiums, and how you can save after an accident.

By MSN Money staff

Getting a good deal on auto insurance is hard enough. Keeping your premiums from rising? That can feel like playing a game where the rule maker refuses to tell you the rules.

Here are a dozen ways the industry works, with tips to help you save:

If you have good credit, you'll pay less. Almost all insurers -- including the top five -- pull your credit report. Why? Studies have shown a direct correlation between your credit score and the likelihood that you will file a claim. Insurers also know that if you pay your bills in a timely fashion and have had the same credit accounts for a long time, you're more stable than someone who pays late and frequently opens and closes accounts. They use this information to create your "insurance risk score," which is one factor that determines your auto-insurance rate.
Tip: Your insurance-risk score is not available to you, but it may be similar to your credit score. If you have unusual credit activity, wait a month for it to return to normal before buying auto insurance. If your credit history is shaky, clean it up as soon as you can.

Your car model affects your premium. You won't get these numbers from your insurer; in fact, you may not be able to get them at all. But the auto insurers do have a rating system for every car make and model. Most use a system devised by the Insurance Services Office, which starts with the cost of the vehicle and then factors in safety and theft data. Cars are given a rating from 1 to 27, and the higher the number, the higher your premium.
Pay in full to avoid installment fees. "Fractional premium" fees are usually charged when you pay your annual premium in installments rather all at once. Payments usually are offered on a six-month, quarterly or monthly basis, but almost every insurance company charges an administrative fee for breaking up the payments. The more you break it down, the more those fees add up.
Tip: Ask about fees for paying in installments. If the fees are small enough, it may be worth it. Remember that insurance companies can cancel your policy for late payment, many times with minimal notification, so make sure you won't miss an installment. If you can pay the premium up front, it may simplify the process and save you a few dollars.

That Pearl Jam CD in your car isn't covered. Stolen or damaged personal items like compact discs aren't covered by your auto insurance.

Tip: You can file a claim on your home insurance. Most home-insurance policies will cover smaller, less expensive items such as compact discs. However, if you carry expensive items such as computer equipment, ask about a rider to your home-insurance policy. It's wise to take photos or video of any expensive personal items before they go missing.

Bad drivers will pay You'll pay for your bad driving. The industry standard is to increase your premium by 40% of the insurer's base rate after your first at-fault accident. For example, if the company's base rate is $400, your premium will go up by $160. Not all auto insurers play by this rule, though, and some may increase your individual rate by 40%. Regardless of what formula they use, in the majority of cases, your rates will go up.

Tip: Some insurance companies have a "forgive the first accident" policy. The qualifying variables are wide-ranging, so ask your company if it has a forgiveness policy and how to qualify.

You'll pay for your friend's bad driving, too. If your friend borrows your car and crashes it, you'll have to file a claim with your insurance company. You'll have to pay any deductible that applies, and your rates will probably go up as a result of your claim.

Tip: If your friend didn't have permission to take your car, in most cases you won't be held liable for the damage. But if your friend is uninsured and causes damage that exceeds your policy limits, the injured party can come after you for medical and property-damage expenses. Best bet? Don't lend out your car.

The value of your "totaled" car may surprise you. Auto-insurance companies don't use the standard Kelley Blue Book or National Association of Automobile Dealers value. Instead, each company has its own proprietary list of car values, and most have specialized software for valuing cars in each region. They take into consideration the car's mileage and pre-accident condition.

The insurance company may also ask local dealers what they'd charge for a similar replacement car. However, the insurer will consider quotes from suburban towns as reasonable estimates, even if you live in the city. You might have to drive several hours to reach the cheapest dealer, just to save the insurance company money. And they might be quoted a better deal than you could get if you walked onto the lot.

Tip: If you disagree with your insurance company's value determination, there are several things you can do:
Next time, get "gap" insurance. It will pay the difference between what an insurer will cover and what you owe, which can be several thousand dollars.

If you have maintenance records that show you've had the oil changed every 3,000 miles and you've had the car checked routinely by a mechanic, present copies to the insurance company to show the car was in good condition. If you've been paying premiums on any special parts or upgrades, make sure those are included in the insurance company's evaluation.

Get price quotes on replacement cars from three dealers within a reasonable driving distance and submit these to your insurance company. Ask the insurance company for a list of dealers within a specific distance who can sell you an equivalent car for the value the company is claiming.

If you still aren't satisfied, you can step up the process and go to mediation or arbitration. Mediation involves presenting your case to a neutral party for help in reaching a compromise; arbitration is a binding decision. You can also, of course, take the issue to court.

Check into "diminished value." Say your car has been in an accident, but repaired. Is it worth less than the exact same car that hasn't been in an accident? It's a hot topic, but some say yes. In 14 states, you're allowed to file a claim with your insurance company for that lost value.

Tip: Thirty-six states and Washington, D.C., allow insurance companies to exclude payments for diminished value, so if you live in one of those states, you won't get to claim the loss. But in Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Kansas, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, North Carolina, South Dakota, Texas, Virginia, Washington and West Virginia, you have a chance of getting a diminished-value payment. If you weren't at fault in the accident, you often can make a successful case against the insurance company of the driver who was at fault.


You may not owe sales tax on your replacement car. Twenty-eight states require auto insurers to pay for the sales tax when you replace your totaled vehicle with a new or used car: Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Dakota, Vermont, Washington, West Virginia and Wisconsin.

Tip: Make the request; don't expect the insurer to offer to pay upfront. Even in states that do not require sales-tax reimbursement, you should request it. Many auto insurers will not deny the request because the policy requires that they make you "whole," returning you to where you were before the accident at no cost to you.
-Accident value of your car. If the insurance company values your car at $10,000, and you purchase a new car for $20,000, the tax will be calculated on $10,000.

Odds and ends

Hit by an uninsured motorist? Try to "stack." Stacking uninsured/underinsured motorist (UM/UIM) coverages means collecting from more than one auto-insurance policy that you hold. Most states forbid this practice, but 19 states allow it or don't address it.

Tip: Check the language of your policy to see if stacking is allowed.

There are two scenarios for stacking: First, if you have multiple cars on your policy with UM/UIM coverage on each, you can collect the limit of your UM/UIM coverage under as many vehicles as necessary to cover full payment for damages. Second, if you have more than one policy with UM/UIM coverage, even if they're from two different insurers, you can make a claim under each policy until all your damages are recovered.

You can wait to add your teenager to your policy until he or she is licensed. You are not required to add your teenager to your policy just because he or she has reached driving age. In most cases, you can wait until he or she has a license -- or, if you're in a high-risk insurance pool, a permit.

Tip: Don't forget to tell your insurance company that you have a licensed teen. If you have to file a claim on his or her behalf, your insurance company is entitled to charge you back premiums from the date your teen received a license.

You must officially cancel your insurance policy when you switch insurers. Your policy most likely states that you can cancel your coverage at any time by notifying the company in writing of the date of termination. However, most people assume that if they decide to terminate the policy at the end of the coverage period, all they have to do is ignore the bill. The insurance companies don't see it that way. They will send you another bill for the next premium payment, and when you don't pay it, the company will cancel you for nonpayment. That goes on your credit record.
Tip: Call your insurance agent or the company and let him know you are canceling your policy. Give a specific date, or you may end up uninsured for a period of time. The company will send you a cancellation request. Most often, the form is already filled out and all it requires is your signature. Make sure you read it to check for errors.

You may have to prove to your former insurance company that you have new coverage. And if you've financed your car through a dealership, update the dealer on your new insurance information, because purchase contracts often require proof of coverage.

Updated April 18, 2007

20 Ways You Waste Money on Your Car!

Don't spend a nickel without a darned good reason. Bone up, wise up and don't let anyone lead you astray.
By Des Toups

Cars make us irrational. We call them our babies and lovingly wax them every Saturday -- or we turn up the radio to drown out the sound of a dragging muffler. Either mindset will cost you money, sometimes a lot of it.
Walking the line between obsession and neglect means you never spend a nickel without a good reason -- and good reasons can include spending money on something that’s not broken.

Here, then, are 20 ways you waste money on your car.

Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest gasoline that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.”

3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum.

Taking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western Nebraska. Better to pop for snow tires than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree.
Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn't "miss" -- skip a beat or make other odd noises -- don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so.

Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie.

Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it.

Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year.

Going to any old repair shop. At the very least, make sure it’s ASE-certified (a good housekeeping seal of approval from the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). From there, look for a well-kept shop with someone who’s willing to answer all your questions. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find.

Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack.

Replacing tires when you should be replacing shocks. If your tires are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out.

Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check -- you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car -- is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced.

Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Check Alldata and the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) to see if a technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued about the component in question. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk.

Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too.

Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price.

Overinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace? Add your deductible to your yearly bill for collision and comprehensive coverage, then compare that total with the wholesale value of the car. If it’s more than half, reconsider.
Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the $5 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that ominous “check engine” light itself that’s failed, not your alternator.

Not changing the fuel filter. Have it replaced as a part of your maintenance -- every two years or according to the manufacturer’s schedule -- rather than when it becomes clogged with grit, leaving you at the mercy of the nearest garage.

Not knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare? Make sure it’s up to snuff and all the parts of your jack are there. Changing a flat yourself is not only cheaper, it’s faster, too.

Not keeping your tires properly inflated. Check them once a month; otherwise, you’re wasting gasoline, risking a blowout and wearing them out more quickly.

Car washes. Ten bucks for long lines and gray water? Nothing shows you care like doing it yourself.

Are Pre-Owned Certified Vehicles Worth It?

By NADAguides.com

When you're looking for a pre-owned car, it can be difficult to know what the difference is between buying a certified or standard used vehicle. Our helpful tips can help ensure that you make the right decision!

Do your homework first
- See what you can afford -Sure that Italian speedster might look nice parked in your driveway, but is it really worth it? Before you waste any time looking at the wrong vehicles, determine what you can afford.

It's also a good idea to check your credit report. This will ensure there aren't any mistakes or other surprises that can negatively affect what type of loan you qualify for.

- Determine your needs - Decide what vehicle best fits your needs, along with your preferred options. These might include color, transmission type (manual or automatic), leather seats and more.

· Check out what others have to say - Sites such as NADAguides.com allow you to compare models, read reviews and much more. It's also a wise idea to check out the vehicle's repair history and see if it has had any recalls. The U.S. Department of Transportation's Auto Safety Hotline (1-800-424-9393) can help you.

Now that you're satisfied on your choice, another question needs to be addressed: Should you buy a new or certified pre-owned automobile? Let's explore this.

What is a certified pre-owned (CPO) automobile? Even though there are many used cars on the road, not every one of them qualifies for certification. Typically, a CPO vehicle is a used car that has gone through a rigorous inspection process and has an extended warranty beyond the car's existing warranty. The best way to describe a CPO car: One that needs very little reconditioning or was reconditioned to original factory specifications.

As a result of stringent guidelines and strict criteria associated with the CPO qualification process, certified pre-owned vehicles are guaranteed, or certified, by the manufacturer. For added peace of mind, virtually every certified pre-owned vehicle sold today comes with a comprehensive vehicle history report as back-up documentation in addition to comprehensive inspections and warranties.

What's involved with a typical certified pre-owned inspection process? Typically, cars that are newer than five years old with fewer than 50,000-60,000 miles and solid title histories are the only vehicles considered for certification. Once a car passes this initial test phase, it's put through a series of evaluations (further defined as the inspection process) to see if it meets the manufacturer's stringent guidelines for certification.

Most manufacturers offer anywhere from 100-point to 300-point inspections. We've organized these detailed inspections into six separate criteria.
· General evaluation: including safety systems, mirrors, lights, braking, steering, shifting and overall engine operation.
· Under hood evaluation: including the electrical system, engine cooling system, brake and ignition systems, belts, air conditioning and power steering.

· Exterior assessment: such as bumpers, front grill, doors, fenders, glass and wheels.

· Interior evaluation: including the instrument panel, seats, carpet, floor mats, headliner and general upholstery.

· Required service and maintenance assessment: such as lube, oil, filters, tire pressure and emissions.

· Exterior detailing analysis: including surface scratch reconditioning, tar and road oil removal, general washing and waxing, and engine compartment cleanliness.

Do certified pre-owned vehicles cost more? Yes, CPO vehicles typically cost more money than non-certified vehicles. They may be as little as $400 more than a non-certified used vehicle or as much as $2,800 more, depending on the brand and model. For some people, paying more money for a manufacturer-guaranteed vehicle is worth the extra cost.

For others, it's better to take the chance and purchase a non-certified used car for less money since there are a wealth of good-quality, mechanically-sound used cars on the road today that don't carry certifications

Is certified pre-owned right for me? Buying a certified pre-owned vehicle is purely a personal decision. As we've outlined in this section, pre-owned vehicles go through a stringent evaluation process and carry comprehensive warranties not typically offered with non-certified used cars.

While certification brings with it guarantees not commonly associated with pre-owned vehicles, it's not a surefire guarantee that something won't go wrong with the used car you're buying. However, consumers appreciate, and in most cases are willing to pay more for, a car that has been rigorously inspected and guaranteed by the manufacturer

How to Say No When An Auto Salesperson Is Pressuring You

Being able to say no -- and mean it -- isn't just helpful when negotiating a car purchase. It's essential, says Philip Reed, consumer advice editor for auto research site Edmunds.com.

"The most effective way of saying no is saying it with your feet" by leaving the dealership when you don't get what you want, said Reed, author of "Strategies for Smart Car Buyers." "Some people say you should leave at least twice" before agreeing to buy a car.

You don't necessarily have to resort to that level of gamesmanship, Reed said, but you should find a salesperson who can take no for an answer.

Avoid the high pressure approach to car buying. Take your auto shopping on the Web. Click here to play the video.
"Car buying is a very expensive purchase with a lot of moving parts. . . . You need to be comfortable with your salesperson," Reed said. "You don't want someone who, when you say no, says, 'Well, why not?' or 'Didn't I tell you about this or that?' "

Using statements that can't really be argued, like "That's not my taste" or "I just don't want that," can help you fend off an aggressive salesperson, but a better solution is "if you're feeling uncomfortable, find someone else who understands no means no."

Extensively researching the car you want and arranging financing before you walk onto the lot can help you thwart attempts to sell you more car than you can afford. Being clear and consistent about what you're looking for will help, too, Grenny said, as can enlisting the salesperson to help you solve your problem rather than creating new ones.

"You can say something like, 'I want a year-old car with these features and I want to pay close to low Blue Book,' " Grenny said. " 'I'd also like you to make a reasonable profit. So how do we do that?' "

Negotiating the deal with the salesperson is usually only the first step. Many dealerships will also trot you to a "closer" as well as the "F&I" (financing and insurance) person. These folks may view your agreement with the salesperson as just the starting point for selling you more stuff you don't want.

Be upfront, Reed urged. "Tell them, 'I want to wrap this up as soon as possible. I don't want any after-sell,' " he said. That may short-circuit the sales pitch, or they may trot out a "deal" on the extended warranty or paint protection.

Repeating "I don't want to be rude, but I want to wrap this up," Reed said, should deflate any further attempts. If not -- once again -- say no with your feet. You can say something like, "Wow, this deal is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought. I guess we can't go through with it today." Chances are the pitches will stop